The Baltic Tears

For those who read my blogs with the expectation of a light-hearted read, this is not one such story, in fact, I would say it’s a rather somber tale instead.

I was on my way back from Tallin in Estonia. For those unaware, Estonia is the most digital country in the world. The tiny Baltic nation sits at the top end of Eastern Europe, about 80 Km away from Finland and bordering Russia. It is home to a population of just over 1.3m people with over a third of them living in the capital, Tallinn. It has the most Unicorn start-ups (a private company with valuation over $1bil) per capita of any nation in the world with 10. It is also home to the most supermodels per capita, which is something I can attest to. Not the most friendly of people, but nobody said art had to talk, it just has to create feeling and boy did I have the feels as I walked through the streets of Tallinn.

However, my story actually takes place in Riga, the capital of Latvia. Latvia is yet another Baltic nation to the south of Estonia also famous for its supermodel like people and its world famous choirs. Now, you might be wondering why Naadir decided to head to this part of the world of all places? Well, it actually has to do with my love for history, song, dance and a friend of mine that could not stop talking about her time spent here. I promise I didn’t go for the models: Islam states that you should lower your gaze when it comes to these matters. Islam also states to feel awe for all the creations of Allah… I choose the latter. As a younger boy, my dad would often sit next to me on my bed with a globe of the earth and explain the wars, heroes, empires and territories to me. Together with the regular work calendars that he would bring home showcasing the splendours of our planet, these sparked an interest in me to go and actually see what he was talking about all these years. His favourite topics were always the World Wars and the Cold War. Unlike Western Europe, Eastern Europe still has the open wounds from the cold war and the Soviets as such, it presents a rather interesting and complex social dynamic.

So, after arriving at Riga bus station, I realized that I had been pickpocketed: no bank cards, ID, driver’s license, cash or residence permit. All gone together with my beautiful 1Euro Alibaba wallet. Luckily I had my phone and passport(with no EU stamp in it) with me. You should also be aware that Baltic people aren’t the most open or friendly people. In addition, not many melanin filled individuals are found here, so I was a solid raisin in a bowl of cornflakes! Also, you should know that Europe has been having an immigrant and refugee problem as of recent - this was pretty evident to me on a recent trip to Croatia where regular people threatened to call the police if I did not show them my EU work permit! Luckily, everyone was engrossed in the local song and dance festival to care about little raisin, Naadir. I say little because Latvians are rather tall. In fact on average, they have the tallest women in the world.

Given the preserved history in Europe, it’s common practice to go for a free walking tour. Basically, local individuals run these tours through their city for free and you give them a tip in return as their daily wage. I always make a habit of going for these because you tend to pick up a few tips from these locals such as the best foods and significance of specific sites as well as where not to go etc. Unfortunately, these are cash based and I had none! But, we live in a digital age and I really wanted a tour because Riga is absolutely stunning and has one of the best preserved old towns I have seen to date. It was time to get a date: Tinder is a dating app designed for, well, everyone I guess! Those looking for something quick; those looking for something serious and in Naadir’s case, those looking for a tour guide… If you know what I mean! I quickly made a profile with my description, “Young South African male looking to meet new and interesting people. Better in person.” After a couple of swipes to the right, Naadir matched with a young lady who actually was interested in a short term relationship. Unfortunately, she had no idea that I was living with a couple of Russians in the most filthy hostel I had ever stayed in and actually, I just wanted an actual city tour.

Upon meeting the lovely lass at the traditional LIMA clock tower in the center of Riga, I instantly asked if she would like to go for a walk to which she agreed. I strategically started conversation about the history of the Baltics and Soviet occupation and this really got her going as she was a social studies major. She thoroughly explained the history of Latvia from the time of the Pagans up until liberation, a fascinating history indeed. After roughly two hours or so of my free walking tour, I told her that I had immense diarrhea from the food and unfortunately had to leave. I also gauged that she wasn’t very impressed with me as no talk of romantic engagements came up in the conversation… Perfect!

Now, back to the story… Towards the end of Soviet occupation of the eastern European states, the Baltic nations, specifically, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia took part in the singing revolution: A series of events from 1987 - 1991 when the aforementioned countries regained their independence from the USSR. On the 23rd of August, 1989, The Baltic way comprised 2 million people forming a human chain from Tallinn, Estonia to Vilnius, Lithuania and stretched roughly 690 km unbroken! Everyone sang songs of protest, patriotism and national pride in a bid to preserve their culture, history and heritage. This was my reason for being there: Once, every 5 years, Riga hosts the Latvian song and dance festival that lasts 10 days during which there will be fetes, local performances, dances and theater daily. 

The amphitheater in Mezaparks filled to capacity 

The event ends with a spectacular performance of over 20000 choral singers. Something so special, it has become part of the UNESCO Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity list since 2008 and I was not going to miss it. The stage is set in Mezaparks forest. A beautiful amphitheater set up in the middle of the forest just on the outskirts of Riga. I remember sitting next to a crippled old man and a young lady, both staring at me with a strange curiosity and I at them under the starlit night sky. I remembered seeing men, women, young, old all dressed up traditionally, sitting in anticipation. Whilst I thought about two pieces I engaged with some time prior: One by my teacher and close friend, Prof Amit Mishra about how war shapes people (two war-torn countries) and another video by a distant uncle of mine, Raf Gangat about his recent book launch Music Has No Boundaries. Give them a look if you are interested.

Four lady performers

I cannot explain what I felt when I heard the first note of 20 000 people. Perhaps it was unity, pride, pain, joy, honour, respect, confusion or …Actually, I have no idea at all.... As a South African, I have seen so much division at home and so much unity as well. I mean, when SA won the world cup, I literally cried because I felt so proud to be South African and knew that it meant more to us as a people than just lifting a trophy: It’s a testament to the success of an ideal that so many fought and died for! But this was so different. I sat there for 4 hours, not understanding a single bloody word of anything and for 4 hours I cried my eyes out! Sobbing like a baby, even the crippled next to me tried to console me with a pat on the back before joining me in tears. At this point, it wasn’t just 20 000 singers, the audience had joined in too… Over 40 000 beings strung on the same note in honour of their past and those who perished for their future. I had never heard something like this. I remember seeing some of the singers crying too and wondered how two people from different cultures, races, religions, ideologies, literal opposite sides of the earth… How can two people be brought to the same emotion without even understanding? For it is understanding that is true freedom. This is the very reason, I always ask the question ,”why?” For without understanding, we are simply prisoners of knowledge. 

Do we cry for pain, joy, freedom or love? Is it the tears we show that mean the most or the ones we don’t? Whatever the answer, I cannot deny that culture is a beautiful thing that should be protected, cherished celebrated and shared.